“You Are Home” Continued…
We started day three with a trip to El Instituto del Cafe, or ICAFE, one of the most organized and prestigious coffee associations in Central America. Every coffee farmer and producer is registered through ICAFE to keep track of all exporting coffee, provide growing techniques, and ensure farmers are being paid the best they can be. The institute is funded by a small export tax on all the coffee, with the majority of each dollar sold returning to the farmer. Through ICAFE, Costa Rica produces 1.8 million bags of green coffee per year from 93,000 hectares of coffee producing land.
ICAFE is like informational Disneyland for coffee people with their experimental farms and lab research. They turn discarded cherries into “pulp pellets” that they can burn as fuel for equipment, they run tests on soil samples and plant pathology, experiment with different levels of shade coverage, and grow rare varieties all so they can communicate the best practices back to farmers. We got to tour their labs to watch soil analysis and seed sampling in action, and viewed their seed bank where we learned they provide seeds with a germination rate of 80%, which is an incredible statistic for farmers.
We walked their experimental farm with their head farmer, learning about practices along the way. Again we were met with what a farm looks like after harvest, but this farm put into perspective how many years it actually takes to have a cherry producing farm, with trees 3-9 years old. Coffee farming is an investment in your patience and dedication to extremely hard work. We discussed tree pruning practices, saw how the fungus “coffee rust” affects the whole operation of the plant, and learned how important rain is for cherry production. The plants need a few weeks of heavy rain for the flowers to open up, but then the rain must promptly stop after they bloom, or else the flowers fall off the plant and won’t produce cherries. Though most of the trees were bare, they told us there was a section of the farm where they had a water leak, thus mimicking a heavy rainfall, so we got to see some beautiful white coffee flowers in bloom.
ICAFE solidified that Costa Rica takes care of their people. We learned that their government provides health insurance and child care to not only Costa Rican farmers and harvesters, but also for those traveling for harvest from other countries like Panama and Nicaragua, who make up 80% of their harvesters. They also have a gender policy in place for women producers to ensure their safety and equal pay. I found myself quite emotional in their presentation room learning about all the steps they take to provide a high quality of life for farmers and their families in all fields of agriculture across Costa Rica. It’s such a supportive and educational environment, they want all their farmers to succeed happily. Writing this section, I am still so inspired by all they do for Costa Rican coffee farming at ICAFE. This place stole a piece of my heart forever. 3 Cheers for ICAFE!
After ICAFE we went to lunch and were set free to roam San Jose in the afternoon. Our hotel was within walking distance to a big park, and three of us decided to go for a stroll before dinner. We walked through the park with the sun setting, changing the sky from bright blue, to purples and pinks, and finally dark. Again I was hit with the overwhelming feeling of I love it here, from the giant trees with air plants, to bird watching, to couples resting on their picnic blankets, and the amount of runners, skaters, and activity in the park. Maybe it’s the constant close to 12 hours of sunlight that provides a more fulfilling routine, maybe it’s the good coffee, good people, and good lifestyles that makes Costa seem like the happiest place in the world. All I know is my first time exploring this amazing country was spent giddy and caffeinated with a smile ear to ear, and I cannot wait to go back.
The last day was so bittersweet. Knowing it was all coming to an end soon while still trying to absorb as much information and sunshine as possible. We started at Oxcart Coffee, which is Cafe Imports’ office for Latin America, located in the Central Valley of Costa Rica. Beautiful, vibrant murals painted on the walls, the back doors opened to a sunny courtyard, lattes being made for each of us before the presentation. I was finally convinced that I was home. It felt like our group had known each other our whole lives, just comfortable, happy, and all there for the same reason– the love of coffee.
One of our amazing trip leaders Adriana, or “Mom” as I called her, gave us a history lesson of Costa Rican coffee, as well as the origin story of Cafe Imports and the importance of Oxcart Coffee in Costa. Adriana not only works at Oxcart, but is the logistics behind all of the exported coffee from Costa Rica for Cafe Imports. Coming from a coffee producing family, it’s literally in her blood. I bow down to all of her hard work and coffee knowledge.
We were joined by Steven Vargas from Don Sabino, and got to cup the coffee we chose while we were touring his farm. The Cafe Imports crew and a group member who roasts for a company in the Netherlands, roasted this coffee the night before on their sample roasters, as the main roaster experienced some technical difficulties. They were all a little nervous going into the cupping, with fingers crossed that they did Steven’s coffee justice. From picking the green coffee, to smelling it freshly ground and brewed, the anticipation grew with each cupping step before we could finally slurp. This coffee, and I’m not exaggerating, is the best coffee I have ever had. Juicy, bright, melons, cherry, perfectly balanced, and did I mention juicy? You can ask anyone on my trip, we all concur. By the end of the cupping we were slurping grounds just for one more taste. Not only that, we got to look Steven in the eyes, finally understanding the magnitude of what this moment meant for everyone, and thanked him for producing such an amazing coffee. It was an experience at the source I will never forget; the cherry on top of my trip.
We headed to the Specialty Coffee Association of Costa Rica that was opened in 1993 by local producers, roasters and exporters. This association also focuses on high quality coffee and high quality of life for farmers. They provide educational programs from cultivation to cupping, while focusing on quality over quantity. The small country of Costa Rica produces <1% of all the coffee in the world, and SCA.CR uses that to their advantage by finding niche markets and promoting their specialty coffees. They host a “Cup Of Excellence” event, where green coffee buyers and roasters cup, score, and bid on coffees they want to bring home. This event is very important for producers, establishing relationships between farmers and buyers, while the bidding auction ramps up the price per pound higher than what they would typically get for it. It incentivizes farmers to educate themselves on good farming practices and to produce high quality, specialty coffees.
Before SCA.CR, we stopped for lunch, and Steven was able to join us which made it even better. With some help, I told him that I’d love to come back to harvest, and he replied “Anytime, this is your home”. Dreams really do come true, and I hope I can one day live up to the quality standards that Steven upholds.
It was starting to settle in at lunch that this was our last meal all together. If I could go back in time, I would’ve made that lunch last all day. Cheesy chicharróns were passed around the table, margaritas were ordered, and my first authentic elote was absolutely delicious. But more importantly, I looked around the table at all the incredible people I was with for the last three days and knew that I had made friends for life. I was blessed with the best group of people on this trip; everyone was so kind and inclusive, and brought something unique to our group. I am still inspired by every person I met and I know that there will be a time when our paths cross again.
photo credit - Cafe Imports
We ended the day with going to the Mercado Central, a never ending maze of vendors selling anything you can think of, from delicious ice cream treats to trinkets, spices, herbs, fabric, and live animals. We bobbed and weaved our way around, getting some goodies to bring back home. After that it was time to part ways; I had a red eye back to the States that I had to pack and mentally prepare for. Hugs and some merch were exchanged, as well as sincere words of appreciation I have for my new friends. I was not ready to leave and I still don’t think I’ve fully returned, still living in a daydream over all I got to experience. As stated earlier, this is just the beginning, and I’m beyond excited to see where the coffee world will take me.
A huge thank you to Cafe Imports and my supportive team at Evans Brothers for making this all happen. I will hold this experience close to my heart forever.
