HUILA BEST CUP 2017 - Part 3 - LIVE AUCTION

Having cupped all the coffees and put the top 15 in order, we were ready for the live auction. This took place in the main downtown plaza of Pitalito, Huila. When we got off our Chiva bus, we felt like celebrities; a large crowd was cheering, music was blaring, and cameras were flashing. It seemed the entire town was here for the auction, and it started to hit home how important our purchases were to the financial well-being of this economy.

The 30 Best of Huila producers were all seated along one side on an elevated platform, with us buyers (roasters and importers) seated opposite them on another platform.. The middle seats and area surrounding the stage were overflowing with producers’ families and apparently everyone else in town. The producers did not yet know who would make it to the Top 15, or what order they would be in. The excitement was palpable as we listened to speeches (en Espanol) by the Mayor of Pitalito, the President of Banexport, Café Imports, etc. Beautiful Colombian dance performances were interspersed throughout the evening, and loud Colombian dance music was pumping continuously.

Daniel and I had our cupping notes and had selected 3 or 4 coffees that we wanted to bid on, out of the top 15. The bidding would start at $3.50 per pound for each lot, with 10 cent increments, working from 15th place to 1st. This was where the fun really got going! We went after the 13th place and then 10th place lot, but really had our sites set on number 9 or 6.

It turned out that the 9th place lot was rather popular, with four or five roasters starting a bidding war. Each time one of us would raise our paddle, the crowd would erupt in exciting dancing and cheering. I must admit I got caught up in the euphoria and paid a bit more than budgeted. Finally the board showed $6.20/lb, “Going once, twice, sold to Evans Brothers Coffee from Sandpoint, Idaho”!

The place went crazy. Producer Jose Ancizar Lanza and his family were overjoyed with emotion. We met the farmer and his family (seemed like an entire village) on stage to huge applause. (This had been the highest priced coffee sold so far). The wife and sisters, children, brothers, you name it came on stage to greet and thank us. The language barrier was apparent, however the emotion was clear. They could not thank us enough! It was overwhelming to see the appreciation and relief on the faces of the men, women, and children. Coffee is their livelihood and they work SO hard at what they do. This moment of jubilation, taking pictures, high fives, and hugging onstage, was the peak experience of my coffee career so far! 

A personal banner given to us by the Lanza familia, with beautiful words surrounding the relationship between coffee and life.

A personal banner given to us by the Lanza familia, with beautiful words surrounding the relationship between coffee and life.

We stayed long after the auction visiting with Jose and his family. We gave them all Evans Brothers hats and shirts, and they gave Daniel and I home-made ponchos. There was also a large banner that they had been waving during the auction, which they proceeded to give as a gift to us. We took a million pictures, and did our best to communicate our mutual respect and gratitude. Eventually we had Jairo come over to translate. I was able to share how much of an impact their gratitude had on me, how overwhelming it was, and our motivation to do good with their coffee.

The $6.20 per pound goes directly to the Lanza family. An additional flat $1 is added on to cover all the expenses of exporting and importing. After experiencing what we experienced with this family, we would have paid twice that amount and felt good about it. It’s obviously a life changing amount of money for them. What’s more it will encourage others to elevate the quality of their production so they too can share in the wealth. We estimated that Huila Best Cup generates an additional $500,000 in cash to the farmers in Huila, above and beyond what they were previously receiving for their coffee.

Daniel and I realized that this is why we do what we do, and why we are motivated to share stories like this with you.

 

 

 

 

 

Posted on November 2, 2017 and filed under Origin.

El Salvador- A Story by Nicole B. - Part 1

Our Group at Finca El Rosario

Our Group at Finca El Rosario

(The following blog posts are the firsthand perspective of one of our Lead Baristas, Nicole Burrato. We were pleased to bring her to origin for the first time this year, along with Desi Freeman, our wholesale partner with Big Blue Coffee in Coeur D'Alene.  Rick Evans)

 

Four weeks ago, I arrived home from a 3-day trip to beautiful, sunny, delicious coffee-producing El Salvador. On this trip we were hosted by the wonderful Menendez Family, and guided each day by Miguel Sr, Miguel Jr, and Guillermo Menendez throughout their family farms. The thing that strikes me most about this family (immediately after all the delicious coffee we could ever want to try!) was the sense of pride they had in the production of a quality product. 

Our group was a rowdy one. With the Evans Crew, Randy and I partnered with Desi from Big Blue in Coeur D' Alene. Dave from Back Porch Coffee in Bend, OR came with a couple of friends and clients. We had two boys, Edwin and Logan, along with their buddy Rick, from Black Rifle Coffee Co., and Christian and Daniel from . Everybody was surprised at the size of the group, and we eyed each other with suspicion and distrust. Not really. Everybody got along quite famously.

On the first day we visited Piedra Grande, the mill that abuts thousands of acres of coffee farms, and through which all of the family's coffee in the area is processed. The drive to the mill takes about 30 minutes from the Menendez Family home in Ahuachapan, and as we bumped our way up the small dirt roads that lead up to the coffee mill, we passed dozens and dozens of families who made their homes on the foothills of the mountain.  

Piedra Grande Beneficio

Piedra Grande Beneficio

Most of them work on the farm during harvest season, Guillermo told us. During that season we employ anywhere from 300-800 pickers, many of whom, if our farm was not here, would have to leave the area for factory jobs in the city. Factory jobs means long stints of time away from family, 16-18 hour days, and meager pay. 

The road is rutted from rain of the wet season, and in the heat of the day is choked with dust. They walk to work and school in the morning, and in the evening they walk to church, Miguel Jr points out to the groups of people smiling and chatting as they head down the mountain. 

As we reach the mill, both Miguel Sr and Jr are talking about how they brought in 8 km of electrical wire to provide the mill with the energy is needs to run. Years ago, we thought about moving the mill down to the road, but the people asked us not to, it would mean less work. So we stayed, and now the electrical lines we brought up also provides access to electricity to the homes along the way. 

We pass several levels of farms, some of which belong to the Menendez Family, some belong to others, and some are abandoned. Coffee leaf rust ravaged the area several years ago, a disease which eats at the leaves of a coffee tree and decimates its ability to produce cherries, and many were not able to recover. Miguel Sr explains how they lost 70% productivity during the worst of it, and just now are growing back upward to 80% of what was previous produced.

On the first day, we tour the mill. There had been a stint of rain the previous week which put a temporary halt in the harvesting process; the trees slow down the ripening of the cherries the presence of rain. The brothers and Miguel Sr are disappointed to not have full drying patios to share with us. There is a small batch of beans being turned in one of the corners, however, and Pacamara is being dried on a stretch of African-style raised beds. 

Nicole and Desi (our wholesale customer with Big Blue Coffee)

Nicole and Desi (our wholesale customer with Big Blue Coffee)

We are given a tour of the sorting and packing facility; Miguel Jr explains how the beans are sorted by weight and size. Each has it's quality standard and is selected for different clients. Miguel Sr shows us the scope of their sustainability; we see how the coffee parchment is burned for fuel and the silt left over from the fermentation process is used as fertilizer for the trees.

Behind the raised beds, we come across a nursery of baby Geisha varietals. The delicate baby plants hide under the leaves of orange and lime trees that grow wild on the mountain. Miguel Sr explains how they are always bringing in new varietals of coffee and experimenting with their cohesiveness to El Salvadoran weather and seasons. 

Young Geisha trees

Young Geisha trees

After the initial tour we have lunch as we wait for our first round of cupping. Day one is several round of 10-15 coffees, each rated 80-85. We're going to build you up, Miguel Sr says, develop your palate. Each coffee is delicious, notes of chocolate and berry, and stone fruit. I can tell there's a lack of clarity, a missing acidity that makes these coffees really pop. 

But no complaints from me; I'm tasting outstanding El Salvadoran coffees in El Salvador.

 

Posted on July 11, 2017 and filed under Origin.

Colombia Huila Best Cup. Daniel's take - Part 1.

Over the first week of February I traveled to Colombia with Rick for the Huila Best Cup auction. It. Was. Amazing! One of the most unique, and definitely one of the most memorable experiences I've ever had. This is a trip I will never forget!

If you haven't already, check out Rick's three-part recap on our trip here, here, and here.

Rick and I arrived in Bogota nearly a day earlier than the rest of our group, so we were able to wander around the city, drink coffee and check out the older part of the city. I'm always intrigued by the coffee scene in producing countries, and luckily we were able to visit two cafes that are at the forefront of specialty coffee in the Colombia. Both of these companies, Azahar and Bourbon Coffee Roasters, focus on sourcing high quality coffee from Colombia and roasting in a way to highlight the regional and vartietal characteristics of the individual lots. Historically the coffee consumed in producing countries has been lower quality, as the best stuff is exported to other countries with a more developed coffee scene. It was very cool to see these companies focused on representing the beautiful products of their country, and showing customers the end result of the hard work that farmers put in. 

The next morning we met with the rest of our group, flew about an hour to Neiva, and took a five or six-ish hour bus ride to Pitalito, where we were based for the rest of our stay. Once in Pitalito we had more formal introductions, met our Colombian cohorts and got the rundown of what we'd be up to for the next week. Cupping coffee, visiting farms, having copious amounts of information dumped on us all the time, cupping more coffee, and buying coffee in a live auction. Awesome.

Beautiful view from the bus.

Beautiful view from the bus.

Check out Rick's posts to learn a bit more about SENA, the national school of coffee quality where we were tasting the coffees. This place is amazing, and is doing a lot for the future of coffee in the country!

Our group consisted of people from all over the US, Canada, Russia, Italy and Taiwan. And Colombia of course. One of the most interesting things about cupping with 30-ish other people from different cultures is how much personal tastes can vary. No matter how objective you try to be, taste is incredibly subjective! When scoring coffee for a competition like this, you do your best to put your personal tastes aside and judge the coffees on their individual merits. Of course, when we were picking the coffees that we wanted to buy we looked at our notes and went with some of our favorites that suited our tastes.

The group at Finca La Pradera

The group at Finca La Pradera

We were tasting, scoring, and judging the top 30 lots of 500-600 total lots submitted for this competition. We also tasted regional selects (non-auction coffee from specific municipalities within the Huila region), and different/interesting varieties for part of the silent auction. More on that later though.

After a calibration cupping we got right into it. It's an incredible experience to taste so many great coffees from one region of one country. While notes of chocolate and caramel were consistent throughout a lot of the cups, the rest was all over the board. Super mild cups with flavors of baked apple, pears, and soft spices, all the way to bright and fruity coffees that were loaded with notes of tropical fruit, citrus, and floral aromatics. Colombia has long been one of my favorite origins for this very reason! Within one country, and even one region, there are so many different coffees to be had. If you think you don't like coffee from Colombia, just drink more. You will be blown away.

After each round of tasting we gathered to discuss the coffees and give our scores. I really enjoyed this part. It's always interesting to hear whose tasting notes and scores were most similar to mine. We were all in a pretty tight range of scoring but there were always a few outliers. A few of the regional select coffees were up there in quality with some of the top 30, in my opinion. Crazy that a larger lot of coffee from multiple producers could stand up next to some of the more farm specific ones, but they did!

Sadly, in the excitement following the live auction I left my notes behind, so I won't be able to give you detailed tasting notes on every single coffee we tried. A sad day for all who read this, I know!

There were definite standouts on each table we were tasting, and you could see the other judges attempting to not seem excited and give it away. But every time one stood out to me, I'd nonchalantly look around the room and see everybody else doing the same. Of course once we all gathered and shared our scores we were all on the same page. When it came down to the end though, all of the top 15 coffees that were auctioned off were in a pretty small range of scores. They were all tasty and I would've been happy coming home with any of them!

Once all of the cups were scored and the top 15 were scored again, we attended the Huila Best Cup live auction. It was wild! We gathered in the town square, and hundreds of people showed up. Locals, friends and family of farmers, all of the judges, and of course the top 30 producers. There was live music and dancing, and during the auction a surprising amount of dubstep bumped while we bid on coffees.

It got off to a slow start with #15 but soon picked up. Once a couple of bids were in on a coffee, all of the producers were standing, shouting "Mas! Mas!" and helping to hype all of us up. The higher the bidding went, the more exciting it got, and the higher people would bid. It was a completely electric experience that I've found myself revisiting almost daily since we returned.

Rick and I narrowed down the coffees to a few we wanted to bid on. Once the 9th place coffee, one of my favorites, rolled around we were ready to go. The producer, Jose Ancizar Lanza was up on stage and he was HYPED! He was very involved in the process, and encouraged everybody to stand as the bidding got higher. After a bit of a bidding war we ended up with the highest bid!

We walked onstage to shake Jose's hand, and were met by tears, hugs and high fives from his family. Knowing how much competitions like this can positively affect a family will stay with me forever. We did our best in (very) broken Spanish to give our thanks. For their beautiful coffee, for the hard work they put in, and for the gifts they gave us after the auction. We are SO excited to share their coffee with you once it comes in!

(Thank you to Andy Reiland from Cafe Imports for a lot of these pictures!)

Posted on March 26, 2017 .

HUILA BEST CUP 2017 - Part 2

 ‘Best of Huila’ received green bean samples from over 600 producers in the region this year. Banexport and Café Imports had scored all of these coffees through a fair and detailed cupping process. In this manner, the submissions had been vetted and ultimately narrowed down to the top 30. Each of the 30 producers are Finalists of Huila Best Cup, and are guaranteed to receive a minimum of $3.50 per pound for their entire lot! To put this in perspective, the farmers would have previously received in the range of $1-1.50 by selling through the FNC. (Colombian Coffee Growers Federation)

After the Top 30 Finalists had been selected, we arrived in Colombia. Our group consisted of around 25 coffee professionals from all over the United States, as well as Canada, Italy, Russia, Taiwan, and Colombia – a very impressive group! Our task was to narrow this field to the top 10 or 15 that would participate in the Live Auction.

The National Learning Service (SENA), a Colombian public institution for coffee and culinary arts. Notice the buildings laid out in the shape of a coffee bean!

The National Learning Service (SENA), a Colombian public institution for coffee and culinary arts. Notice the buildings laid out in the shape of a coffee bean!

We drove each morning to a fantastic venue called SENA (National Learning Service), a public institution that offers a free education to Colombian students that want to pursue careers in coffee or culinary arts. This school grows their own coffee, raises livestock, produces biofuel, and has the best cupping lab and facilities I’ve ever seen. It is educating the youth of Colombia to be successful in the coffee world, or anything else they choose to do. SENA donates their space to the Best of Huila competition each year.

So for four days we would do two rounds of blind cuppings. Each of us scored every coffee, and then we would adjourn into a room and read out our scores and tasting notes. Scores were averaged in order to select the top 15 winning lots, in order from 15 to 1st place. With so many close scores, we determined that 15 of these would go to the live auction at the end of the week.

There was a secondary purpose to these cuppings, which was grading and selecting another category of coffees called Regional Select. These were the Best Cup submissions that did not quite make it into the Top 30, but that were still producing very high quality coffee. Café Imports takes 10 or so small lots from a specific village or town, with coffee that meets high standards and shares a similar microclimate and processing method. This is blended together to create a Regional Select category that is marketed under the town name, and typically scores in the 85-88 point range of specialty coffee.

We also cupped these Regional Select offerings, and had the opportunity to purchase these larger lots on a first come basis. On this trip, we secured a lot from Montanita Timana (town of Timana) which was the highest scored Regional Select of all! This is an affordable, very tasty coffee that will be in our lineup for about 6 months, beginning in March.

Dionel Chilito and Rick Evans at Finca La Pradera. We secured a small amount of Dionel's prized Geisha varietal at the silent auction.

Dionel Chilito and Rick Evans at Finca La Pradera. We secured a small amount of Dionel's prized Geisha varietal at the silent auction.

Of course in addition to all this coffee analysis, we also visited a different producer and his farm each day. These were some of the most beautiful farms I've ever seen, with such friendly people opening their homes to us. And it is always so interesting to see the different methodologies in place with each producer, and how Banexport has helped them improve their processes.

Posted on February 27, 2017 and filed under Origin.

Evans Brothers 3rd Place Winner America's Best CoffeeHouse

We had an incredible time at Coffee Fest Portland 2015. Evans Brothers Won 3rd Place in the prestigious America's Best Coffeehouse competition! According to Coffee Fest, "America's Best Coffeehouse competition has been developed to determine and acknowledge the three best coffeehouses regionally in North America"

Posted on December 4, 2015 and filed under Accolades, News.

Brazil Origin Trip 2015

The origin trip to Brazil was at the end of September for 10 days. The trip was organized by one of our importing partners that we purchase some of our coffee through, Atlas Coffee Importers, and included three other roasting companies, Broadcast Coffee from Seattle, Cafe Grumpy from New York, and Hunter Bay from Montana. We flew to Sao Paulo, and toured the heart of Brazils coffee growing region in Minas Gerais.

Posted on December 1, 2015 and filed under Origin.